May 2011
10 posts
Extreme; you dont know the meaning of it.
I pushed my limits. Half a mile into the ocean, I attempted to ride a 15 foot wave. The beast curled over me at 25 miles per hour, and managed to keep me under water for almost a minute. I almost lost my life today.
The Adrenaline…
The rush…
The power…
The freedom…
I had never feared death as much as I did today.
RESPECT THE OCEAN.
All alone at sunset beach.
Laying in the warm sand. Absorbing the sun’s rays. Looking out into the Pacific Ocean. Listening to the waves crashing. Feeling the cool mist in the air. All I need is my music and my surfboard. I belong at the beach. I’m living my dream.
I will surf 12 foot waves tomorrow...
Dangerous, massive, storm waves, unforgiving rip currents, and the rush of the ocean’s power. >:] This is going to be epic.
Time passes by...
4 hours of waiting. 2 hours of distractions. 1 hour of confusion. 4 hours of searching. 3 recessing hours of giving up. 1 hour of crying. A flash of anger. Forever disappointed. 1 hour of thinking. 2 hours of sleep. 1 hour of dreaming. 1 hour of preparation. 5 seconds of failure. 1 hour of crying. 1 hour of missing. 1 hour of falling apart. 1 hour of melancholy. 5 minutes of rest. 1 hour of...
step one: isolation
step two: obedience
step three: no fear
step four: self sufficiency
step five: forget
step six: feel the heat
step seven: control energy
step eight: discipline
step nine: focus
step ten: no one will stop you
step eleven: strength in all forms
step twelve: no pain
step thirteen: you are not alone
step fourteen: desire nothing
step fifteen: swallow other people’s misery
step...
